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Zabotrailslampe: The Axe-box

Axe cans (almost) the dozen

Unbeatable easy to get everywhere and in many tones delivered: AXE deodorant. Since we prefer to smell musty honest sweat than after-Womanizer Deo, we have been building from 2008 Zabolampe AXE deodorant cans. That exist in each Dogeriemarkt 2,80 € - and even Lady in the design ...

LED technology for self-area is not as straightforward, so we always build OSRAM IRC nor the 20 watt halogen lamp is. He has compared to simple halogen spotlights 30% more light output. The version with 24 ° opening angle is a good compromise between range and single trail fitness for night driving. In the lithium-ion battery can be teased out from the Osram halogen up to 35 watts. So far we are not cooking blown. It pays to pay so the slightly higher price for these lamps. All parts are
it at www.reichelt.de and in any Dogeriemarkt. The total cost for a lamp with battery and charger are in a good 60 €.

The complete parts list is for you away even at a mouse click www.reichelt.de ready (The plug of the batteries are not included here. The instructions are in the battery). You have to get a can of AXE deodorant only.
and how it works: The case

The basis for the DIY lamp is a AXE deodorant can. It consists of extruded aluminum and has a plastic lid. Their biggest drawback is the filling. The smells funny and must be removed before use. Has proven to be a vice here, with which one clamps the snap of the can easily. After 5 minutes outside the deodorant. Caution! Anyone who passes through the Deostrahl smells inevitably as a polecat. Therefore, the Processing of the can happen out there as possible.

Those who are looking a little more fun with empty spray, the propellant can also use pyrotechnics. But caution is necessary here! And besides, we would never make such a course Fackelei ...






If the can is empty, you hit a nail with a hole centered in the ground. Which makes the final pressure to escape. Do not worry, this is not much.






Now you pull off the whole plastic cover. You saw the can immediately after the first Edge off. This works best with a mini tool with cutting disc. A fine saw it does. When cutting you have to be a bit careful that the can not lock it dented.

the plastic cover you take so far apart that only left the outer cover part. The oppressor and the little white tube you do not need. Possibly it is rausuzknacken with gentle force. Do not worry, the outer (major) part of the lid holds a lot. This outer cover part you put back on the can. He remains with the saws around. Now you saw him so down like in the picture. There remain 2-3mm turn of the ribbing. The three plastic tabs which are now in the lid, reaping you off with a wire cutter or knife.


The box has sharp edges after cutting. You should be the tool with a mini or a fine round file deburr.

Now you bohrst hole with a diameter of 6.5 mm in the bottom of the can. For one hole you bohrst to the existing nail hole. Here comes equal to the switch inside. You bohrst a second hole on the edge for the cable.





Thus, the rough work is already done ...

The electric

The wiring is not rocket science. We do without backups, but use well-insulated Tamiya connectors from model to avoid the short circuits reliably. RCA plug and forget. In these connections, it always comes back to short circuits.

A one meter long piece of cable (wire) at both ends of wires. On one side of a wire of the cable to the supply of Halogen-base solder and insulate with a piece of tape. solder between the other side of the wire and the other lead of the socket the switch. Shortly after the switch to make a knot in the cord. This is the relief, which ensures that the cable is not abreissst of the solder joints.


Then thread the harness through the outer hole in the can, screw the switch in the central hole. At the end of the cable threaded through the TAM now jack and the solder joints sealed with duct tape. Because the battery gets plugged.





The halogen sockets on the halogen spot, the spot in the plastic cover and put the lid on the Deogehäuse.

When the lid is not tight enough sitting help again - so what good - duct tape! A narrow strip on the Deogehäuse all for game balance.






Now the whole thing looks after just a lamp.

The thing with the hot wire

Who wants to run his lamp in the lithium-ion battery, a thermistor need (Also known as inrush or NTC). He not only lists the battery electronics, but also protects the lamp and the other battery types when switched on. Why this is so, you can read here.

The hot wire must be soldered in series with the switch and the lamp. In the picture you can see how it goes. At best it isolates the legs of the Heisleiters with shrink wrap and tie them together with a small cable tie. In order to reliably prevents the little guy, the pins pulled out.
Another note: the hot-wire leads, if it is hot (and thereby decreasing its resistance). That is, it may become warm. Thus, it reduces the lamp power a little bit. Who wants to know can read it here. When lithium-ion battery you must turn off the lamp after waiting about 30 seconds to cool the hot wire and turn on again leaves. When NiMh battery model (Racing Packs) and the lead acid battery of the hot wire is not absolutely necessary.

And one final note:
also for driving with light, the provisions of the Road Traffic! This lamp may only be on private property and then used so that no one is blinded. So nice to watch, eh!
The ingenious idea for this lamp housing is the way of Flo. Thank you for creative idea!
Have fun with lots of light in the forest!
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